Solid State
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 Topics about solid state and miscellaneous Tesla coils on this page include:

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  Setup as twins and running   Twin coils with SIDAC IGBT (SISG) supply

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    SIDAC spark substitute solid state Tesla coil. (SSSSSTC)

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    SIDAC IGBT Spark Gap (SISG)

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    Vacuum tube Tesla coil (VTTC)

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    Royer circuit - huge but small

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    Solid state variac

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    Tesla coil made from a microwave oven

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    Hand-cranked TC

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    Neon and Fluoro tubes

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    Tesla Tuner

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Twin coils with SIDAC IGBT (SISG) supply 2009 
This project describes building two identical Tesla coils and driving them with a solid state driver. The principles of the SISG driver are described in the two following topics after this one. 

Setup as twins and running    (click to enlarge)

The twin coils firing above with about 80 cm spark from two 50 cm secondary coils.  This is only running on about 60 - 70 % of full voltage due to a problem with some of the SISG modules.

  Winding the Tesla coil Winding the Tesla coil
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Animation showing manual winder        Animation showing applying the coating while rotating the coil

Above shows the winding of the 1260 turns on each secondary using thumb guidance and a manual winder. Then it gets a couple of coats of polyurethane (common timber floor sealant). Specs; 1260 turns 26 G 0.40 mm (.016 inches) over 50.5 cm on 11 cm diam 57.8 cm length 3.5 mm thick PVC (between 5.0 cm to 57.5 cm.

  The 1/4 inch refrigeration tubing for the Primary and Secondary wire Exploded view of secondary and topload (click to enlarge)

Above shows the 1/4 inch refrigeration tubing used to make the primary and the fine polyimide coated high temperature magnet wire for the secondary. The temporary 8 inch plastic float is coated with aluminum foil and is assembled with some PVC connection and screws on the end of the secondary.  I am trying to keep this relatively easy to dismantle for travel and repairs.

Conical primary   (click to enlarge)

The primary coil above is unconventional as I am using a cylindrical coil rather than a flat helical one. It was wound in minutes, is easily spaced and tapping is with fuse holders and heavy flexible multi strand wire. I can tap both ends. Once I get the best results by adjusting the number of turns, I then go up or down with the same number of turns. This adjusts the coupling to further optimize the spark length. I must admit this is a lot more adjustable, faster to wind and more compact than a helical coil.  Most spark gap coils use a helical primary and most DRSSTC solid state coils use a cylindrical one as they work better with higher coupling.  I am using copper pipe as a coax line to get the power from the tank caps to minimise losses.

 The SISG Boards and the capacitors Close up of the lashup board Close up of Mark Dunn's SISG board with 4 of Terry Fritz's 900V sections
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Above shows the SISG driver boards where each 900V section has its own IGBT with heat sink triggered by 3 x 300 V SIDAC's. Total of 4 boards with 4 sections giving 14.4 kV firing voltage.  The supply is from two MOT's in a clever voltage multiplier arrangement where the tank cap doubles as the multipliers caps to generate over 12 kV.

  Individually wrapped caps to allow close packing. Capbank close mounting and wiring Cap is center tapped and has heavy copper connections.
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Above shows the 80 capacitors in 8 strings of 10. The capacitors for this voltage multiplier set up need to be center tapped. As I am not expecting a significant temperature rise and needed them to be very compact I individually wrapped 3 layers of polyethylene around each of the 80 caps so they could be touching and still stand off a maximum of 4kV between them. So far so good. I am only using 60 caps at present. I am not using resistors across each cap or even across the whole bank as the voltage in circuit decays in about 5 seconds.

Very first light was only tiny Second light with some tweaking With new secondary. Sparks up to 48cm A 44cm spark (click to enlarge)

Above shows initial low power runs with a puny 1 cm spark. After tuning and boosting power the output rose to sparks up to 60 cm from a single 50 cm coil.

 Short exposure of twin coils   (click to enlarge)

Above are the twins in action. Currently giving about 100 cm sparks between the coils. Still not fully optimized and hope for more.  Sparks are purplish rather than bright white due to the relatively low capacitance of the spherical topload.

A few references which describe the electronics.
http://drsstc.com/~sisg/SISG.pdf  Terry Fritz's write up of the first single MOT SISG system.  This system generates 30 inch sparks but would be better optimized with a lower resonant frequency and bigger toroid http://drsstc.com/~sisg/files/BigSISGCoil/ Lots of SISG related files from Terry Fritz.
http://deanostoybox.com/hot-streamer/temp/PRIANHA-III-too-early.gif The circuit diagram of the 2 MOT Piranha system.
http://www.teslaboys.com/SISG/SISG4BOM.pdf Parts list for 1 board
http://www.classictesla.com/photos/sisg/sisg.html Bart Anderson's SISG coil

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SIDAC spark substitute solid state Tesla coil. (SSSSSTC) 2005
This is my earliest use of electronics to drive a Tesla coil.  It is a proof of principle coil rather than a big performer. It uses SIDAC's in place of a spark gap (As I use them which is with the tank cap across the supply rather than the spark gap across the supply). These are symmetrical breakdown devices.

As set up at present it is driven by a MOT transformer with the associated 11 kV diode and 0.95 uF 2 KVAC cap wired as a voltage doubler to provide 5.6 KV or so. This is dumped by a SIDAC or rather 22 in series each shunted by 1 megOhm.  Each SIDAC is rated to breakdown at 240 V and has a 1 A RMS or 20 A pulse capacity.  The string of 22 SIDAC's will nominally breakdown at 5280 V. SIDAC's act similarly to a sparkgap.
Data is here.  The SIDAC's cost US$1.33 each in 10 quantity at Digikey.

Also shown running ignition coils (with much better performance) here. This might have application for small coils running low voltages where spark gaps become problematic, but without the complexity of an SSTC.
 

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Pic shows 2 inch sparks on my 4 inch coil (5 kV in 60 kV out).  I later used 47 SIDAC's each shunted with 1M uomega. I could get small streamers but not much more regular spark length. However, if I used a spark gap in series with the SIDAC's the spark length increase was marked and over 6 inches. I interpret this to indicate that quenching is not really happening with the SIDAC's alone possibly due to the speed of the devices.  I had hoped the SIDAC's recovery when the current drops would do this but apparently not well or fast enough. Di/dt is 120A/uS.

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SIDAC IGBT Spark Gap (SISG) 2006
SIDAC's are now being used as the triggers for IGBT's to act as a spark gap with fascinating and evolving information being developed by Terry Fritz here. Each driver fires at 900 V to be within the IGBT 1200 V rating. Multiple drivers are simple daisy chained to reach the desired firing voltage eg 12 kV NST requires 16 stages which adds to cost. However it does open the way for using lower voltages in the MOT range where real spark gaps don't work well.  Terry has reached 30 inch sparks with these and Mark has reached 40 inches.  Hot off the press May 21 2006!

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Here is my SISG driver. No I don't have a PCB and yes some of those components are vertical. I have built it on part of a multikV strip of SIDAC's that I have cut off.
Nevertheless the fast components have very short paths and should have low inductance and reasonable current rating. The IGBT fits nicely into a terminal block to allow changing IGBT's as I want to try some big IGBT's later. The heatsink was chosen for it's extra holes rather than need for size. An extra aluminium plate allows the IGBT to be secured.
The black wire allows selection of the number of SIDAC's to use.

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This shows a very rough setup with (almost) 2 turns on the primary and an SISG running at 900 V with 120 nF resulting in a 1 inch spark.

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Vacuum tube Tesla coil (VTTC) 2005
This is a version of a Tesla coil where the primary is driven by a vacuum tube (valve) oscillator.  I have a Philips TB3/750 power triode  rated at 3 kV 1 kW with a 5 V 14 A filament. The high voltage comes from a microwave oven transformer (MOT) and doubler. The filament supply is from a rewound microwave oven transformer to give the 5 V. This is largely a copy of Steve Ward's VTTC modified to use parts I had on hand.

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Above left shows Steve Ward's circuit diagram.  The 833A valve is a bit more powerful then the one I have. Above right shows the parts scrounged from my shed.  I haven't had to buy anything specifically for the coil at this stage. I was donated this and some other valves by Prof. David Blair (Physics, Uni of Western Australia).

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Above left shows the base of the VTTC. Left MOT is for the main HV with a diode voltage doubler using one of the 3 MO capacitors. Right MOT is the filament supply. Vacuum tube socket is front centre and MO suppression filters at rear for each of the two MOT's. Centre photo shows an early shot in action.  This is not in tune and is only using a single 440 pf tank capacitor instead of the 5 I would need to get around 2000 pF (= 2 nF).  This allows the rather small secondary coil to run with a relatively large toroid (the only one I have that looks decent close up).  Right photo shows the tube glowing a bright orange.  In this setup it is very inefficient. 

A further step along the way. Still not in tune but with streamers up to 4 inches. Frequency is about 300kHz but with a 2MHz harmonic. I have a 12 inch secondary with about 750 turns of 26g. No staccato yet but I have the parts.

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Photo shows a drinking man's toroid and some sword like streamers.  Vacuum tube is not red (well, for short runs at least).

Liviu Vasiliu has a database of VTTC coilers and their sites.

For a really big VTTC I have acquired a large 60 kW 30 Mhz transmitting triode that runs on 12 kV and has a filament current of 89 A.

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Royer circuit  2005
Details of this driver driving flyback and other coils are here. Here it is used with a 1+1 turn primary on the base of my 18 inch coil.

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Solid state variac 2005  A variac is a variable transformer used to supply adjustable power for many projects and is invaluable.  They are also expensive as they are large and heavy.  Here, I explore the solid state option which may be preferable in some situations.  This SSVariac I lashed up uses an IGBT out of an inverter microwave run by a TL494 at 2kHz.  The tricky part is that it is "inside" a bridge rectifier so that it controls AC. This is inserted between the mains and the NST.  There is also a snubber of 0.1uF and 400 uomega that gets pretty hot. I haven't tuned this for long term runs yet as a lot of power is still being dumped into a 230V MOV across the IGBT. (Fortunately I have 300 of these)
 

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Pic shown full on running one half of an NST.  You should be able to follow the wiring setup from the photo   Yes I am turning an "old fashioned" variac but just to supply power to the setup.

I don't really think that it would be more expensive than a variac for NST use of less than 5A 240V.  The main rectifier could be 3A diodes, and the IGBT/Mosfet could be almost any one with a 500V rating at 10A. The TL494 circuit could be a 555 in this situation.  The snubber may generate some heat and a mains filter is probably wise. A small 12V transformer or even old 9V plugpack could supply power. As ususal it depends how much can be scrounged up.

If this can be made to work reliably and effectively then it may be of interest to those who use NST's.

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Tesla coil made only out of parts from a single microwave oven 2006
Ok, I reckon that there is not enough ingenuity and resourcefulness going on in budget coiling these days.
So, on the 4HV forum, I proposed a prize of $US 50 to be paid by me to the person who makes a Tesla coil with the longest sparks from a standard microwave oven.

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Above, a standard microwave oven with lid off.
The rules were:
One standard domestic MO (microwave oven) less than 1000W to be obtained free.
MO must be the transformer type not the inverter type.
Only the parts of one oven to be used. No other parts to be used apart from solder, hot glue or epoxy in reasonable amounts (not large amounts to make secondary formers).
This also means no PVC, tape, paper or other extraneous substance.
How you adapt the internal parts is up to you.
Progress, results and sparks must all be photographed to confirm use of only parts of one MO are used. Spark length measured from the photo with a ruler adjacent.

And the result?  Well no one won it. I didn't get the time to complete mine before the deadline. However I have done it - just 9 days late. Shown here with 1/2 inch sparks only but best in development has been 1 inch and plenty of scope for improvement with better design.
Here's how:
Power supply is the MOT. This needs current limiting and this is achieved with a 150nF capacitor and the voltage is boosted by a one stage multiplier using the MOT diode to give 4kV peak. Note that power is taken off across the diode not across the cap to get the voltage multiplier effect. Hey what's this about a 150nF cap? Where is that in a microwave oven? Well that is the key to this project. The 1uF 10kV DC mylar and oil cap (that is in all non-inverter MO's) needs to be taken apart and unwound. Lengths of the multilayered dielectric and foil are taken out and cut to length. It took about 10 feet of the windings to make 150nF. This is perhaps only 30% of the total. New electrodes were added.

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Above, shows the mylar cap drained of oil and unwound, then rewound with 4 redundant layers for the tank cap.

Tank cap. This is a 1nF cap. The technique is similar but I retained the original electrodes from the cap to use in this section as they were better suited to a high current. Construction of this cap was different in view of the much higher voltage/current and frequency stresses. It used about 30% of the length of the cap windings. The plates were only about 1 foot long by 2 inches, however I used two sections of foil/dielectric between them. The foil was not connected and was kept to equalise voltage stresses. All in all something like 12 layers of mylar and 2 foil layers separate the main electrodes.
Being mylar they do warm up a bit.
Spark gap This is two aluminium electrodes (from the frame of the MO fan) bolted to part of the MO timer circuit board with all the components and printed circuit ground off. It really needs another section to give better quenching.
Primary is the MO transformer 6V winding which is heavy copper. This is stuck on to the 3 legged wheeled frame that the glass food tray sits on and rotates.

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Secondary former is the cardboard internal cardboard insulation from the HV cap. It was washed but became a bit soft but still usable.

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Above shows the primary former being HV tested for conductivity.

Secondary windings use wire from the fan motor and less than half was used. The hot glue didn't stick the cardboard former together properly and the windings slipped and overlapped. I have had some interturn shorting (and may still have) so I can't really push the power much without a rewind. No idea how many turns.
Toroid I did try winding lots of turns of wire on the fan blades but it didn't improve the performance. so I just left the metal mesh spacer that sits on the output of the magnetron for a nice colour.

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Photo above shows a spark with inter-turn shorting and also a racing spark suggesting over-coupling.


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Left photo above shows the full setup with the MO transformer feeding into a voltage doubler formed by the 150 nF cap and diode.  The output is taken across the diode to get the voltage doubler effect.  This means the diode is across the spark gap which does look unusual but it should give 4 kV peak to fire the spark gap.  The tank cap is 1 nF.  The center photo shows sparks of up to 1 inch from it from a 4 kV NST and a 2 gap static gap. The right photo shows the completed coil running from the MOT. Not fabulous performance but the proof of principle is there are plenty of opportunities to do better. I was reluctant to retune and push harder as the 150 nF cap kept blowing and having to be rewound with a section cut out. The secondary is overlapping and may not tolerate a higher voltage although I suspect it may have a properly shorted turn already which is why performance has dropped despite the power increase.

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And finally put back in a MO with the electronics still functional so you push START and STOP to run it!

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Hand-cranked TC 2007
This was just a quickie to demonstrate that one can get sparks with a hand cranked generator.  I used an antique telephone alternator and was able to demonstrate sparks about 1/4 inch when cranking out about 100V AC peak into an NST. Mains is about 375 V AC peak by comparison. I used only one rather than 4 segments of the static gap but other wise my mini-TC was unchanged.

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Above shows a tiny spark in series with a neon on top of my mini coil. My right hand is a blur of rotation and my left hand is holding the camera infrared remote (which the camera can see).  The out of focus CRO is set for 50V per division ie just over 100 V peak in a rather odd shaped wave.

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Neon and Fluoro tubes  2007
This was just another quick demo of a comparison between neon and fluoro tubes for Tesla coils.

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Above shows a similar length neon and a fluoro tube with ends connected.  The electrode end has been made identical by using same sized electrodes. One has to bring the neon much closer to fire it. Of course the color is much nicer...

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Tesla Tuner  2007
This is a handy little circuit developed by Terry Fritz and is used to tune Tesla coils, both for primary resonance in parallel and secondary resonance in series.  It is a little 555 oscillator that at resonance will make LEDs light up brightly.  The circuit is here.

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Left photo above shows the internals of my version using on hand parts.  I used a 10 turn pot that I had on hand and various "near enough" parts.  The center photo shows it on with the blue LED being the power and the red LED's being the ones in series with the output which will be brightest at resonance.  The right photo shows it in action with a frequency meter indicating 256 kHz resonance of this small coil with large toroid. The tuner (and frequency meter) goes between the ground end of the TC and ground. In this case the LED's will be darkest at resonance.  For my large TC the resonance was 41 kHz.

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This page was last updated August 18, 2009